Most towing incidents start with something small: a coupler that wasn’t latched, a chain that dragged, a tire that was low, a light that didn’t work. The checklist below is ordered so you can do it the same way every time. Print it, save it on your phone, or adapt it to your trailer.
Before you hitch
- Weights: the loaded trailer, tongue weight and tow vehicle are within their ratings. If anything changed since last time, check it with the towing capacity and payload calculators.
- Load: heavy items low and slightly ahead of the trailer axle, centered side to side, nothing heavy at the very back.
- Cargo secured: straps tight and rated for the load; see the tie-down calculator. Loose items inside campers stowed, cabinets latched, fridge door locked.
- Hitch parts match: ball diameter matches the coupler (it is stamped on both), and every part is rated for the trailer and tongue weight (hitch class calculator).
- Ball mount and ball: ball nut tight, ball mount pin and clip in place, no cracks or excessive wear.
Coupling
- Coupler fully over the ball and latched. Lower the tongue onto the ball, close the latch and insert the safety pin or lock.
- Lift test: raise the tongue jack slightly; the rear of the tow vehicle should rise with the trailer. If the coupler pops off, it was not seated.
- Tongue jack fully raised and the foot or wheel stowed. A jack left down can catch the road over a bump.
- Weight distribution bars or chains installed and tensioned as you set them up, with clips in place.
- Level: the trailer sits level or very slightly nose down. If not, see the hitch drop calculator.
Safety chains and breakaway
- Chains crossed under the tongue so they form a cradle that would catch the coupler if it came off the ball.
- Enough slack to turn fully without binding, but not so much that the chains drag on the road.
- Hooks closed, with latches or clips, attached to the hitch’s chain loops (not to the ball mount).
- Breakaway cable attached to the tow vehicle independently of the chains, with enough slack for turns.
Electrical and brakes
- Connector plugged in fully, cable routed so it can’t drag, with slack for turns.
- Lights: running lights, both turn signals, brake lights, hazard flashers and, if fitted, reverse lights. A second person or a reflection in a window makes this quick.
- Brake controller shows the trailer connected. Gain set for the current load.
- Brake test: in the first few yards, apply the trailer brakes alone with the controller’s manual lever. You should feel the trailer pull back. See trailer brakes explained.
Tires, wheels and hubs
- Pressure checked cold on the tow vehicle and trailer, to the label values for the load. See trailer tires explained.
- Sidewalls and tread: no cracks, bulges, cuts or uneven wear. Tire age within the recommended life.
- Lug nuts torqued; re-check after the first miles on freshly mounted wheels.
- Spare inflated, plus a jack and a wrench that fit the trailer.
- Wheel bearings serviced on schedule. Boat trailers: bearing protectors filled.
Trailer body
- Doors, windows, roof vents, hatches and storage compartments closed and latched.
- Entry steps retracted; slide-outs and awnings fully in and locked; antennas and roof items down.
- Stabilizer jacks raised; wheel chocks removed and stored.
- On campers, follow your manual for traveling with propane, appliances and the refrigerator.
- On boat trailers: transom straps and bow strap tight, winch locked, drain plug as required, engine raised and supported if recommended.
Tow vehicle
- Mirrors adjusted, or towing mirrors extended so you can see along both sides of the trailer.
- Tow/haul mode on if the vehicle has it.
- Fuel: plan stops with towing range, not normal range; see the towing range calculator.
- Route: check for low clearances, steep grades and places you can turn around or refuel with a trailer.
The final walk-around
Walk all the way around the rig one last time, looking low and high: jack up, chocks out, chains crossed, cable connected, steps in, doors shut, nothing left on the ground. It catches the one thing that slipped through. Many experienced towers do a second, shorter walk-around after the first few miles and at every fuel stop: touch each hub through the back of your hand near the wheel (not on the brake drum) to compare temperatures, look at the tires and check that the coupler and chains are still as you left them.
After the trip
- Note anything that felt wrong: sway, pulling, a hot hub, a light that flickered. Fix it before the next trip.
- Inspect tires for damage picked up on the road.
- Rinse boat trailers and their brakes after salt water.
This guide is general information. Your vehicle, hitch, trailer and tire manufacturers’ ratings and instructions always come first, and towing rules vary by state, province and country. See our disclaimer.